Monkey Mountain

I've heard of a place in Vietnam called 'Monkey Mountain' for most of my life. My dad would tell all of us kids his stories about being in 'Nam and going through Monkey Mountain. He said that when they'd go through, he's whole company would pick up rocks and get into these full blown rock fights with all the monkeys in the trees. It was quite the story to hear as little kids and we were always entertained.

Since I came to Vietnam, I knew one of my 'must-do's' was to try and find Monkey Mountain. I figured it'd be a long shot because it was probably just nicknamed this during the war and no one would actually know what the mountain was that I'd be asking for. But, to my surprise, I really lucked out. Here is an email I sent home to my family, as I'm too lazy to re-type the story out:

I did find Monkey Mountain! Dad told me that he was stationed in Danang, about 20 minutes north of the city. Danang isn't a common tourist stop, so I figured I'd do that part on my own and catch up with my friends down the coast, but two of them decided to come with me...which was a great decision. We get to Danang and had heard of a guesthouse called Hoa's Place (pronounced Whaa), that he was a Marine in the war, ran a great business and was located 300 meters off a beautiful beach. We thought this sounded pretty fantastic, but knew that when things sound great in SE Asia, they usually tend to be far worse than the beautiful picture you had in your mind. Luckily when we got to Hoa's Place is was BETTER than we imagined!! As soon as we arrived, all 5 foot 3 of him jumped up, came out to greet us, thanked us for coming to see him and offered us drinks. He sat down with us and we started to chat away. (The main part of the guesthouse is an open air restaurant, which everyone goes there throughout the day, so its easy to meet people, share traveling stories, etc. Plus, Hoa has an honesty policy, so the fridge is open for guests at all times, you just write down what you take, which I love because then you just feel more welcome.) Anyway, we had a nice first day. Hung by the beach, swam in the bath water temperature ocean, played catch in the water with some Vietnamese boys, and then had a 'family style' dinner that Hoa puts on every night.

Photo of Hoa, myself and his wife. Sitting in their kitchen.

The next morning, I got up to have breakfast and started talking to Hoa again. At this point, I knew I had to say Dad was a Vet and stationed in this area. I hadn't done it the day before because I wasn't sure on the response I'd get. But as soon as I said 'My dad was here in 1966', Hoa jumped out of his chair, came around the table and gave me a hug, then said 'Now Molly, you no make me cry, ok?'. I laughed and said OK. I told him all I knew about Dad's time here and he said he wanted to call his friend Bill and get him down here. Thirty minutes later, a bald man on a motorbike heads in. Bill is from Colorado, was also a Marine but stationed in Vietnam in 1969. In 1994, Bill decided it was time to come back to Vietnam to see what the country that had scarred him so many years before looked like now. He's a photography and with the pictures he took throughout the country, he published a booked called "Vietnam: A Second Look". I had a quick glance at the book and it is very good!! Think I may order one for Dad when I get back to the States.

I asked the two Vets about 'Monkey Mountain', 'Red Beach' and 'Dog Patch', and they knew exactly where they all were! Much to my surprise. I thought all of these names were just made up within Dad's company because he said they called it Monkey Mountain because of all the monkeys, red beach because the sand was red, and dog patch because the villagers cooked so many dogs. I honestly thought it would be a long shot to have anyone know where these places were, but luckily I was chatting with two Vets. Bill then asked me if I'd want to go for a cruise up to Monkey Mountain. About 30 minutes away from where we were. Obviously I said yes, and off we went for our adventure!

Bill and I after our adventure to Monkey Mountain, having lunch at China Beach.

Strangely enough, the mountain that was in the midst of a war 40 years ago, now is home to a Buddhist temple and monastery. In the photos, you can see the Female Buddha that is the protector of the harbor.

The enterance to the Buddhist Monastary.

Side view of the Buddha, and she is still under construction.

When I got back to Hoa's place, he kept going on and on about 'your dad is my brother, he see things that only we know, he my brother, and that mean, you my kid, you queen of this house while you here. i take care of you'. (He probably said that to me a good 15 times, which then made me question his mental stability, but overall, one of the sweetest men I've met while here, even if he's a little crazy.)

The old Marine Base

This is the view from Hoa's Place, on the beach. The entire first day I had no idea I was looking over to Monkey Mountain the entire time. (You can see the Buddha in the middle, the large white dot.)